Break the Rules: Highlight Directly on Your Colors

Hey, co-workers at Joseph Michael’s this one is for you.

When I worked for the “Salon which shall remain nameless,” (I promised the owner to never mention him or his salon online again), I learned a few techniques and this one is a great one. I made a video but somehow I erased it when I made snapshots out of the vid, so I’ll just explain it with the snapshots and a few poor handmade diagrams.

My client Amy came in with a level 6 + 15% gray regrowth and highlighted lengths. Amy when she came inWe decided that she should go down to a level 6 warm, so I used INOH 5 with 2o volume on the roots (I always use a level darker than I want in INOH) and I used 5.35+6.32 + 10volume from her regrowth to ends.

NOW: I wanted dimension, for an easier grow out (she has gray!) so I highlighted directly on the just laid color. I used our no-ammonia bleach with 20 volume. When you are doing this, you must use small sections and tiny highlights on the top of the head and around the face. I use chunky sections on the interior. See sectioning chart.

When I was done highlighting, I could have used a small amount of heat but I just let it develop for about 20 minutes: When the color in the foils was a light caramel, I had an assistant shampoo my client’s hair.
As you can see, the color came came out great and it was in better condition than when she walked in.

This is a great technique and I pass this on to you because I believe that INOH is not appreciated by many of us in the salon. Many colorists are still using ammonia products to deposit onto porous hair which can lead to fast fading. And Shades EQ is used too much for neutralizing red AFTER the color–and that too, fades, and it doesn’t improve the feeling of the hair. INOH does not fade very quickly and it actually feels and looks like natural hair in shine and texture. Highlighting no-ammonia on top of a non-ammonia color does not ruin elasticity or hair structure and the results is shiny and rich.

I hope you all try using the warm tone’s on your blondes when you want to add “lower lights” to your  blondes. INOH comes out true to color without using fillers–and you never have to worry about it coming out too green or have to use a red-red color while deepening a level.

Feel free to ask me about tricks for a fuller gray coverage with INOH.

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